LHA, or lipohydroxy acid, is a fat-loving relative of salicylic acid, listed on labels as capryloyl salicylic acid. It is used for clogged pores, blackheads, breakouts and rough texture. Because it moves into skin slowly, it exfoliates at low strengths. Most published studies come from one cosmetics company's researchers.
- Helps with
- blackheads, clogged pores, breakouts, rough texture, marks left by breakouts
- Evidence
- Limited. A review and trials of multi-ingredient products, all from one manufacturer's research teams; no trials of LHA on its own.
- Typical strength
- Low strengths; the studies cited here do not state one figure
- Works well with
- salicylic acid (in tested combination products), niacinamide (in tested combination products)
- Be careful with
- other exfoliating acids on the same night
What does LHA do for skin?
LHA is aimed at congested skin: blackheads across the nose, small closed bumps on the forehead, the occasional breakout and the flat red or brown marks breakouts leave behind. Like salicylic acid, it loosens the dead cells that clog pores, but it was designed to work more gently.
How is LHA different from salicylic acid?
It is salicylic acid with a fatty tail attached, which makes it mix with skin oils and slows how fast it moves in. A 2007 review explains why that matters: “The lipophilic nature of C8-LHA and its relatively slow penetration in the skin afford it an exfoliating effect that is efficient at low concentrations.” In everyday terms, a small amount does the job, released gradually at the surface instead of all at once.
Does LHA help with breakouts and marks?
It has only been tested inside multi-ingredient products. In an 8-week trial of 83 adults in China, a serum with salicylic acid and LHA, used alone or with a matching mask, improved breakouts, closed and open comedones, pore density, oiliness and the red and brown marks left by spots. Adding the mask improved results further. In a 56-day trial of 150 people, a cream combining salicylic acid, LHA, niacinamide and other ingredients was compared with a 5% benzoyl peroxide gel; by day 56, 62.2% of the cream group had improved by at least one grade on the doctor’s scale, versus 50.0% with the gel. Both trials were run by the company that makes these products, and neither can separate the effect of LHA from the other ingredients.
How long until you notice a difference?
The serum trial checked skin from day 1 to week 8, and the cream trial at days 28 and 56; the reported improvements were measured at 8 weeks.
How do you use LHA?
In a serum, toner or moisturizer, usually once or twice a day after cleansing, with sunscreen in the morning. Use one exfoliating acid at a time; for clogged bumps, see what closed comedones are.
Who should be careful with LHA?
Allergy is possible: a 2014 report described contact allergy to capryloyl salicylic acid. Stop if a product causes itching or a rash, and patch test new products first.
- Saint-Léger D, Lévêque JL, Verschoore M. The use of hydroxy acids on the skin: characteristics of C8-lipohydroxy acid. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007;6(1):59-65.
- Li S, et al. Efficacy and safety of a facial serum and a mask containing salicylic acid and lipohydroxy acid in acne management: a randomized controlled trial. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023;22(9):2502-2511.
- Dal Belo SE, et al. Efficacy of a multitargeted, salicylic acid-based dermocosmetic cream compared to benzoyl peroxide 5% in acne vulgaris: results from a randomized study. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024;23(3):891-897.
- de Groot A, et al. Contact allergy to capryloyl salicylic acid. Contact Dermatitis. 2014;71(3):185-7.
Editorial content, not medical advice.