Centella asiatica, called cica on many labels, is a plant extract used for calming and moisturizing. Its key compounds include asiaticoside and madecassoside. People use it for redness, dryness, a weakened barrier and fine lines. Small trials found it raised hydration and softened eye and lip wrinkles over 8 to 12 weeks.
- Helps with
- redness, dry or tight skin, a weakened skin barrier, fine lines around the eyes and lips
- Evidence
- Limited. Five small randomized trials on wrinkles and a 25-person hydration study; extracts are not standardized, so products differ.
- Typical strength
- 2.5–5% extract in the hydration study; 5% did best
- Works well with
- niacinamide, ceramides, panthenol
What does centella do for skin?
Centella, or cica, is the calming ingredient: for cheeks that flush easily, skin that feels tight and hot after a strong product, and dry patches that never quite settle. It is also used for fine lines around the eyes and lips. The plant has a long history; a 2014 review notes it “was already used as a ‘panacea’ 3000 years ago”, mainly for small wounds and scars.
Does centella calm and moisturize skin?
In a 4-week study, 25 volunteers applied creams and gels with 2.5% or 5% centella extract to their forearms twice a day. The 5% versions worked best: skin held more water and lost less of it, and in a standard test that provokes mild redness, the treated skin reacted less. The study was small and on arms, but it matches why centella is used in calming products.
Does centella help with wrinkles?
A 2020 review pooled 5 double-blind randomized trials with 172 Asian women. Centella creams used around the eyes for 12 weeks, and a centella compound in a lipstick for 8 weeks, softened eye and lip wrinkles. It raised skin hydration noticeably, which tretinoin did not. In one comparison it caused 10 side effects versus 35 for tretinoin. The authors caution that extracts are not standardized, so one cica product can differ a lot from another.
How long until you notice a difference?
Hydration changes were measured weekly over 4 weeks; wrinkle changes at 8 to 12 weeks.
How do you use centella?
In a toner, serum, cream or toner pad, morning or night. It pairs well with other barrier ingredients such as ceramides and panthenol. For using pads, see how to use toner pads.
Who should be careful with centella?
The 2014 review discusses possible side effects of centella preparations. Because cica products vary so much, patch test a new one first.
- K-SECRET: SEOUL 1988 Cleansing Oil: Pine Cica 1% + ProbioticsDisclosure: editor-affiliated brand.
- haruharu wonder: Centella 4% TXA Dark Spot Go Away Serum
- haruharu wonder: Centella 5% Niacinamide Radiance Gel Cream
- haruharu wonder: Centella 3% PHA Gentle Liquid Exfoliating Serum
- haruharu wonder: Centella Sunflower Makeup-Melting Cleansing Balm
- Bylka W, et al. Centella asiatica in dermatology: an overview. Phytother Res. 2014;28(8):1117-24.
- Kongkaew C, et al. Efficacy and safety of Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. on wrinkles: a systematic review of published data and network meta-analysis. J Cosmet Sci. 2020;71(6):439-454.
- Ratz-Łyko A, Arct J, Pytkowska K. Moisturizing and antiinflammatory properties of cosmetic formulations containing Centella asiatica extract. Indian J Pharm Sci. 2016;78(1):27-33.
Editorial content, not medical advice.