Madecassoside is one of the main active compounds in centella asiatica, the plant sold as cica. It appears in calming creams and serums for redness, dryness and skin that feels rough. One 6-month trial in 20 women paired it with vitamin C and saw smoother, firmer-looking skin; most other evidence comes from cell studies.
- Helps with
- redness, skin that feels rough, tight, dry skin, fine lines
- Evidence
- Limited. There is one small human trial, and it tested madecassoside together with 5% vitamin C, so it cannot show what madecassoside does alone. The rest of the evidence comes from skin cells in the lab.
- Typical strength
- 0.1% in the one long-term human study, combined with 5% vitamin C
- Works well with
- vitamin C
- Be careful with
- expecting it to work on its own; most products pair it with other soothing ingredients
What does madecassoside do for skin?
It is one of the reasons cica creams feel calming. Think of skin that turns pink and tight after a strong cleanser, or cheeks that feel rough by the end of a cold day. Madecassoside is a compound taken from centella asiatica, the plant behind most cica labels. On a label it may appear on its own or alongside centella extract.
How much it does on its own is still an open question. A 2026 lab study described it plainly: madecassoside “has long been used in the cosmetic regime for skin care with doubtful effects.” That study and others are trying to work out what it actually does in skin.
How does madecassoside work?
So far the clues come from skin cells in dishes. In a 2019 study, madecassoside lowered inflammatory signals in immune cells exposed to an acne-related bacterium, and raised moisture-related proteins in skin cells and hyaluronic acid production in deeper skin cells. In the 2026 study, a wound made in a layer of skin cells closed faster with madecassoside, and the cells held up better after UV exposure. Cells in a dish are not your face, so read these as reasons it might help, not proof that it does.
Can madecassoside make skin look smoother?
There is one long human study, and it tested a pairing. In a 2008 randomized, double-blind study, 20 women with sun-aged skin applied a cream with 5% vitamin C and 0.1% madecassoside for 6 months. Their scores for deep and fine wrinkles, suppleness, firmness, roughness and hydration improved significantly, and measured skin elasticity backed that up. In the authors’ words, “Two-thirds of the subjects showed an improvement.” Because vitamin C was in the same cream, the study cannot say how much of that came from madecassoside.
How long until you notice a difference?
There is little human data on timing. The only long human study ran for 6 months before measuring wrinkles and firmness, so judge any change in how skin looks over months, not days.
How do you use madecassoside?
Use the product it comes in as directed, once or twice a day, usually as a serum or moisturizer after cleansing. It sits easily in a routine, and the one human trial paired it with vitamin C. Our entry on centella covers the whole plant extract it comes from, and our guide to what order to put skincare on shows where a calming serum or cream goes.
Who should be careful with madecassoside?
Few people, based on what is known. US safety reviewers assessed 9 ingredients derived from centella asiatica in 2023 and concluded they are safe as used in cosmetics when formulated to be non-sensitizing. Madecassoside itself was not one of the 9, but it comes from the same plant. The caution is about expectations: redness that keeps coming back is worth showing a dermatologist rather than covering with a calming cream. Patch test anything new if your skin reacts easily.
- Haftek M, et al. Clinical, biometric and structural evaluation of the long-term effects of a topical treatment with ascorbic acid and madecassoside in photoaged human skin. Exp Dermatol. 2008;17(11):946-52.
- Shen X, et al. Propionibacterium acnes related anti-inflammation and skin hydration activities of madecassoside, a pentacyclic triterpene saponin from Centella asiatica. Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 2019;83(3):561-568.
- Sucharitakul T, et al. Centella asiatica phytochemical madecassoside enhances skin wound healing and protects against UVB-induced keratinocyte damage. Tissue Barriers. 2026;14(1):2532229.
- Johnson W Jr, et al. Safety assessment of Centella asiatica-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2023;42(1_suppl):5S-22S.
Editorial content, not medical advice.