Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of protein. In skincare they are designed to send specific signals, such as asking skin to make more collagen or relaxing the pull behind expression lines. Some have controlled trials showing softer fine lines, but each peptide is different and results are modest.
- Helps with
- fine lines, expression lines, loss of firmness
- Evidence
- Limited. A few controlled trials on specific peptides, several run by makers; most peptides on labels have little published human data.
- Typical strength
- Tiny amounts: 3 parts per million of palmitoyl pentapeptide in one trial, 10% of acetyl hexapeptide-8 in another
- Works well with
- moisturizer, sunscreen
What do peptides do for skin?
Peptides are aimed at the first signs of age: fine lines at the corners of the eyes, the crease between the brows that stays a little longer each year, and skin that feels less springy. Each peptide is built to carry one message to skin cells, so peptides on a label can mean very different things.
A review of topical peptides sorted them into types: “Peptides and proteins, frequently used for this purpose, were categorized into four groups: signal peptides, enzyme-inhibitor peptides, neurotransmitter-inhibitor peptides and carrier peptides.” In everyday terms: some ask skin to build collagen, some protect it from breakdown, some calm the muscle pull behind expression lines, and some carry minerals such as copper.
Do peptides reduce wrinkles?
Some do, in controlled tests. In a 12-week split-face study, 93 women aged 35 to 55 used a moisturizer with 3 parts per million of palmitoyl pentapeptide on one side and the same moisturizer without it on the other. The peptide side showed fewer fine lines and wrinkles in image analysis and expert grading. The researchers worked for the manufacturer.
Acetyl hexapeptide-8, sold as Argireline, is designed to soften expression lines by damping the nerve signal that makes muscles contract. A cream with 10% reduced wrinkle depth by up to 30% after 30 days in the developers’ tests. In an independent placebo-controlled study of 60 people in China, 48.9% of those using it around the eyes improved, compared with none on placebo, after 4 weeks.
Do peptides actually get into skin?
That is the open question. A widely cited dermatology paper argues that molecules must be smaller than 500 daltons, a unit of molecular size, to pass the skin’s outer layer. Many peptides are larger, which is one reason makers attach fatty chains (the palmitoyl in palmitoyl pentapeptide) to help them in. For the longer answer, see do peptides work in skincare?
How long until you notice a difference?
The trials above measured results at 4 weeks, 30 days and 12 weeks. Give a peptide product at least a month.
How do you use peptides?
Morning or night, as a serum or moisturizer after cleansing. They are usually gentle enough to combine with most routines; see what order to put skincare on.
Who should be careful with peptides?
The trials above reported them as well tolerated. Because each peptide is a different molecule, judge each product on its own evidence rather than on the word peptide, and patch test if your skin reacts easily.
- Gorouhi F, Maibach HI. Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2009;31(5):327-45.
- Robinson LR, et al. Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2005;27(3):155-60.
- Blanes-Mira C, et al. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2002;24(5):303-10.
- Wang Y, et al. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline, a synthetic hexapeptide, in Chinese subjects: a randomized, placebo-controlled study. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2013;14(2):147-53.
- Bos JD, Meinardi MM. The 500 Dalton rule for the skin penetration of chemical compounds and drugs. Exp Dermatol. 2000;9(3):165-9.
Editorial content, not medical advice.