Bakuchiol is a plant compound from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia, often sold as a gentler alternative to retinol. It is used for fine lines, uneven tone and sun spots. In a 12-week trial it softened wrinkles and dark spots about as well as retinol, with less flaking and stinging.
- Helps with
- fine lines, dark spots, uneven tone, sensitive skin that dislikes retinol
- Evidence
- Limited. One head-to-head randomized trial with 44 people plus lab gene studies; larger independent trials are lacking.
- Typical strength
- 0.5% twice daily in the head-to-head trial
- Works well with
- moisturizer, daily sunscreen
What does bakuchiol do for skin?
Bakuchiol is for people who want what retinol promises, softer fine lines and fewer sun spots, without the peeling and stinging retinol can bring. Picture the early creases at the outer corners of the eyes and the scattered brown spots on the cheekbones; those are what it was tested on.
In a 12-week double-blind trial, 44 people used either 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice a day or 0.5% retinol cream once a day. Both groups had a clear drop in wrinkle area and in dark spots, with no meaningful difference between the two. The retinol group reported more flaking and stinging.
How does bakuchiol work if it is not a retinoid?
It looks nothing like vitamin A, yet in lab skin models it switched on a very similar set of genes. A 2014 study concluded that “bakuchiol, having no structural resemblance to retinoids, can function as a functional analogue of retinol”, and found it raised the same types of collagen. In plain terms, it takes a different road to a similar place.
Is bakuchiol as good as retinol?
On current evidence, it is comparable in one trial, and better tolerated. That trial had 44 people and ran 12 weeks, so it is a promising result rather than a settled one. Retinol has a longer research record; its own effect is modest, as a review of cosmetic retinoids notes. See retinol and retinal for comparison.
How long until you notice a difference?
The trial took photographs at 4, 8 and 12 weeks and reported its results at 12 weeks.
How do you use bakuchiol?
The trial used it morning and evening. Apply after cleansing, then moisturizer, with sunscreen during the day.
Who should be careful with bakuchiol?
It was better tolerated than retinol in the trial, which is why it is popular with sensitive skin. It is still a plant extract, so patch test a new product first.
- Dhaliwal S, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol. 2019;180(2):289-296.
- Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014;36(3):221-30.
- Sorg O, et al. Retinoids in cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Ther. 2006;19(5):289-96.
Editorial content, not medical advice.